The secret reverie of knowing you are wearing something one of a kind is a luxurious feeling. Crane Brothers are known for allowing their clients this opportunity through custom-made tailoring, which has now been expanded to include shoe making.
Opening up the design process to customers, and turning it into a conversation which they can be part of, offers a unique shopping experience. Choosing the colour of the leather, the weight of the suede, the style that best suits you or your occasion is one exemplary benefit. Being able to have each shoe sized to fit the shape of your foot is another premium service.
For some, buying custom-made may be a once in a lifetime extravagance. For others, it’s a necessity and those who invest in bespoke know that a well-fitted shoe means comfort and longevity.
For Crane Brothers’ Murray Crane, custom- made lies at the heart of the brand’s ethos. “Luxury is something of quality, something well-made. At the core of everything we create are the pillars of value, quality and longevity.”
In celebration of this new service, we spoke to Murray about his love of Italian craftsmanship and his stunning new Christchurch store, which opened in February.
How long have you been travelling to Italy for? I’ve been travelling to Italy for 20 years and yet my Italian is still very poor! I generally go twice a year to visit our various partners and suppliers, and we have an office in Milan.
You’ve no doubt met many talented designers and artisans on your travels there. Have these experiences inspired your new custom shoe service or have you noticed a demand for it? The demand for good shoes has definitely increased. There has also been a general growth in awareness of made to measure and, more importantly, in personalisation. These are two pillars of our offer so we felt that it was a natural step to launch a custom-made shoe service.
Would you say that Italy is the home of leather goods artistry? I would say it is one of them. Similar to their tailoring, the Italians have a strong focus on wearability and comfort which are important to our clients. The craftsmanship is intergenerational so there is a deep understanding of the work, but it is their passion for the product that you don’t get anywhere else in the world.
Are you working with one company of shoe- makers or is there a broader scale of production involved? Our production happens through a central vendor who has specific individual contacts, and who can guarantee us supply and delivery. As you can imagine, much of what we do is time-sensitive (especially weddings!) and we have worked very carefully to make sure that we can meet our delivery dates. The handiwork that goes into these shoes is very high and you can really tell. We are lucky enough to be working with ateliers that make for all the best menswear brands.
What are the main styles that you’ll be offering? We wanted to be able to offer a broad premium collection. Our edit comprises 12 styles with all key shapes and designs covered, including double monks and oxfords and brogues. We are also offering a luxury trainer.
What are the main benefits of investing in custom-made shoes? Custom-made gives you complete control over the fit and the finish, starting with the most fundamental thing (the size, and therefore comfort). Full and half sizes are available and it is possible to order different sizes for each foot. A superior fit means shoes last longer. The premium leather selection is vast, too. Our calf selection features six different shades of tan and brown so you are virtually able to design your perfect shoe. We’re also offering belts in the same leathers so our clients can now have a custom-made look from top to toe — suit, shirt, belt and shoes. This is something we are very excited about.
Congratulations on your stunning new store in Christchurch. It must be a very special project for you. Having grown up in Canterbury, it was a long-held ambition of mine to have a retail presence in Christchurch. Earlier plans to open there had to be put on hold following the earthquakes. Christchurch means a lot to me, on a personal level, and I want to contribute to the rebuild and regeneration of the city.
The store has a very sophisticated, European feel to it. You’ve chosen a historic building which suits the brand perfectly. Yes, the Italian palazzo-style building was built in the 1930s and has been restored with meticulous attention to detail. It’s in a precinct of the city that is rich with creativity so I knew it was the right place for Crane Brothers. It encapsulates everything I love about the city and it’s a landmark that I admired as a young man.
Words—Caroline Waldergrave | Photography—Greta Kenyon & Cam Downey