Charlotte Penman’s jewellery blends timeless design with contemporary artistry, honouring heritage with a global perspective.
Rooted in decades of creativity, this New Zealand–made brand seamlessly fuses tradition and innovation, crafting exquisite pieces for the modern wearer. We asked Charlotte about the artistry behind her brand, especially her exquisite ceremonial jewellery.
TJ: How do your family’s artistic influences shape Charlotte Penman & Co today?
CP: I feel incredibly fortunate to have grown up in an environment where creativity was part of daily life. It made following a less conventional path feel natural, and building a business around creativity less daunting.
My childhood has shaped my ethos as a designer, both visually and in terms of how I run a creative business. My grandparents, with whom I spent a lot of time as a child, deeply loved art and collected Japanese and Chinese artifacts. The environment they created gave me an early appreciation for design as something that shapes not just objects but the way we live and feel.
My parents were also huge influences. My mum has an eye for beauty with a more bohemian, eclectic spirit, while my dad is deeply entrepreneurial. My uncle, John Penman, was a glassblower with his own studio, and my cousin, Catherine David, was a designer. Both inspired me greatly.
TJ: You call your jewellery ‘armour to empower.’ How do you design engagement rings and wedding bands, and what do you want couples to feel wearing them?
CP: Jewellery and adornment have always fascinated me — how they can completely shift your mood, almost like a good luck charm or protective amulet, a cloak of protection as you step into the world. I feel this across our collections, but ceremonial pieces are especially meaningful.
The design process is deeply personal, and it’s incredible knowing these pieces will be worn daily, becoming heirlooms for future generations. They symbolise so much, going beyond the physical to something almost transcendental.
When designing, I often think about how the wearer will experience a glimpse of that magic — the gemstones, the love behind the proposal — becoming a lasting symbol of faith in love and life.
TJ: Your gemstones are sourced from places as diverse as Madagascar, Alaska, the Czech Republic, and New Mexico, each with its own unique story. How do you go about selecting these stones?
CP: We work with gem suppliers, stone cutters, valuers, and collectors in New Zealand and abroad, carefully selecting each gemstone. Many of the companies we collaborate with are family-run, often spanning generations, which makes the process even more special. There’s a deep reverence for coloured gemstones — everyone involved is genuinely passionate, and I believe each stone carries a positive impact.
Many of our sapphires come from Sri Lanka, where a strong regeneration process exists. We also use conflict-free and recycled natural diamonds and now offer lab-created diamonds, free from the ethical concerns of mining. Our gems are paired with recycled gold, and we contribute to a native forest restoration project, ensuring each piece has a circular impact.
TJ: Your father was a trailblazing jeweller in the 1980s, collaborating with Zambesi and Trelise Cooper, and appearing in Vogue…?
CP: My dad worked with his brother, my uncle Ricardo, in the 1980s. They lived in Bali, running a jewellery company with my stepmum and collaborating with designers from Italy and Switzerland. Their pieces sold worldwide, with Germany as their biggest market, followed by the US, Spain, Switzerland, Brazil, New Zealand and Australia. Locally, they were stocked by independent fashion houses like World, Zambesi, and Trelise Cooper, later forming an alliance with Walker & Hall.
TJ: Raised between New Zealand and Hong Kong, your aesthetic blends Eastern and Western influences. How do these shape your ceremonial designs?
CP: The contrast between New Zealand’s raw natural beauty and Hong Kong’s vibrant, sensory-rich world of colour, texture, and craftsmanship deeply influenced me. I was captivated by intricate handwoven baskets, embroidered linens, and the elegance of Cheongsam.
Jewellery shop window displays fascinated me. I vividly remember the guards at the doors, their presence adding to the dreamlike, almost otherworldly atmosphere.
My biggest influences are ancient jewellery, antiquity, and modern art and design. I’m always seeking a balance between simplicity and unexpected details—great design, I believe, has a tension between worlds.
Charlotte Penman rings are worn for a lifetime, so they must truly reflect the wearer’s essence and style. I aim to create designs that will be just as loved decades from now, ensuring each piece remains deeply meaningful and timeless.
TJ: You create bespoke engagement rings and wedding bands, crafting future heirlooms with couples. What is your process like?
CP: The bespoke process is a deeply personal and collaborative journey. It begins with a conversation, in person or online, where I get to know the couple, their story, and their vision. Some clients seek a surprise ring, where I work solely with the proposer, while others collaborate as a couple.
Some arrive with a clear idea, while others explore different concepts, drawing inspiration from art, design, and fashion to create something truly unique.
We hold a gem viewing, where clients select from various shapes and colours — a fun and meaningful step. Once the centre stone is chosen, I sketch and refine the design before rendering it in wax.
After final concept approval, the ring is brought to life using a blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern techniques, ensuring it’s beautiful, functional, and deeply sentimental.
TJ: Modernism, a legacy from your grandfather, shapes your work. How do you balance its progressive aesthetic with the timelessness needed for heirloom pieces?
CP: Stripping things back to their essence has always been central to my design philosophy. A ring needs clarity of form and a balance of elements. While modernism values simplicity and function, I also believe in capturing a timeless quality in every ceremonial piece. I see my designs as miniature sculptures offering a unique perspective from every angle.
My grandfather’s influence has given me faith that raw, honest design creates balance and longevity. I focus on clean, refined forms that transcend trends while incorporating meaningful details that connect to the wearer’s story.
Craftsmanship and integrity are at the core of what we do, ensuring each piece is classic yet carries an element of individuality and surprise.
TJ: As Charlotte Penman & Co grows, what excites you most? Any upcoming collections, collaborations, or new bridal jewellery directions to watch for?
CP: We’re excited to expand overseas in the coming years. While we already work with bespoke clients in Australia, the US, and England, we also hope to introduce our collections there.
This year, we have several collaborations, including a special collection with Auckland Museum for Divas, an exhibit from London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, launching in June. It has also inspired us to create a bespoke bridal earring collection, which we plan to release later this year.
Additionally, we’re working on a permanent collection of signature engagement rings, which we look forward to launching soon!
For more information, visit charlottepenman.com and @charlottepenmanandco.
