The Italians have a term for it – la bella figura – which literally translates to the beautiful figure, and means dressing well to make a good impression.
It’s a concept that Murray Crane of Crane Brothers is familiar with. The founder of Crane Brothers contemporary tailors has spent 35 years crisscrossing Europe, particularly Italy, visiting suppliers and manufacturers. He recently returned home after a 10-day visit.
“We have shirt makers in Milan, tailors in Rome, cloth makers in Naples, silk weavers and tie makers in Lake Como, and our shoes are made in Florence,” says Murray, from his High Street store in Auckland. (It’s one of two in New Zealand’s largest city – the other Crane Brothers store is in Christchurch.)
What inspires Murray’s Italian trips are beautiful fabrics and craftsmanship the likes of which he can’t always access in the Southern hemisphere.
“The cottons, silks and wool we use are among the best in the world, as are the skilled artisans who create our products for us. I’ve been working with some of these artisans for more than 20 years and, in some cases, am onto the second and third generation of the same family. They’re a key part of what we do at Crane Brothers.”
While Murray might find the time to enjoy a gelato in Rome or sneak in a slice of traditional pizza in Naples, his visits are always jam-packed.
“I had 38 appointments in 10 days,” he says of his latest trip.
One thing Murray did notice on that trip was a continued trend of more formal dressing.
“It is partly a hangover from Covid, and the fact that people are still casual in the way they dress for work, but men want to get dressed up, whether in a tuxedo or a smoking jacket. There is a real swing towards occasion dressing, globally.”
It’s a trend that works for the Crane Brothers brand, which has long specialised in both ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits for occasion wear, including weddings.
Another trend Murray of Crane Brothers has noticed in the last two years is the changing wedding season, particularly in New Zealand. “Our wedding season in the Southern hemisphere traditionally ran from November through to March, when it’s summer and we’re guaranteed better weather. But thanks to a combination of climate change and stress on wedding venues, our busy period now starts in September or October.”
An increase in destination weddings, particularly during the European summer, means that customers are often shopping for lightweight summer suits in the Southern hemisphere winter, and for heavier winter suits in summer.
“It means that we need to carry a more comprehensive collection of perennial fabrics.”
While the global cost of living crisis doesn’t seem to have dented the top end of wedding menswear, Murray has noticed a growing preference for smaller, more intimate ceremonies.
“Whereas once a couple may have opted for 100 guests, now they might go for only 20 or 30 guests. They’re opting for smaller, more chic weddings, perhaps in a villa in Italy or Spain, and investing in a honeymoon.”
With a made-to-measure suit taking up to 12 weeks to complete, Murray’s advice is for grooms to get in as early as possible.
“This time frame allows for fittings and includes finishing the garments. There are a number of hidden details in a suit, such as the embroidery and a high degree of hand finishing, as well as all the internal components that contribute to the final garment fitting well and feeling great. It’s that attention to detail that is the difference between a good and a great suit. That’s what we’re known for.”
Murray admits that while men’s tailoring follows trends, albeit more slowly than womenswear, what hasn’t changed is the importance of the style trifecta of cut, fabric and fit.
“You have to have great fabric and cut. You can’t disguise those things. Having a great fit is critical, because when a suit is tailored to fit you properly, you’ll look better, feel more confident, and the wedding photos will look better.”
South Island-raised, Murray has been honing his fashion eye since he was 14, when he spent his free time modifying op-shop purchases. But he originally had his sights set on becoming a graphic designer.
After a stint in the art department of the Christchurch Star newspaper, the then 17-year-old headed to Sydney where he got into visual merchandising and making leather belts which he sold at Sydney Markets and select stores.
Fast forward a few years and, back in New Zealand, Murray worked with the renowned brand Zambesi where he established their menswear section and first dipped his toe into the international buying market.
Like all good businesses, Crane Brothers was started in 1999 after Murray spotted a gap in the market for menswear that combined custom-made tailoring with contemporary design.
But no matter whether Murray and his team are crafting a wedding tuxedo or a smart pair of shorts, the design ethos remains the same.
“As a brand, the cut, fabric and fit of a garment are, and always will be, the core of what we do, as well as offering great service”.
Read More: Crane Brothers: Navigating Dress Codes
Learn more at crane-brothers.com or follow them on Instagram at @cranebrothers.
