Where architectural precision meets romance, Emilia Wickstead reimagines bridal dressing with timeless modernity.
Few designers have cultivated a point of view as distinctive and enduring as Emilia Wickstead. The New Zealand-born, London-based designer has built one of fashion’s most respected luxury houses, earning international acclaim for her refined aesthetic, impeccable craftsmanship and unwavering commitment to modern femininity. Regularly worn by royalty, global tastemakers and some of the world’s most stylish women, her collections have cemented her place among fashion’s most influential designers. While her influence on the wider fashion landscape is well documented, it is her bridal collection that remains a particular point of fascination for our audience. —— Exclusively housed within the brand’s Sloane Street boutique, Emilia Wickstead Bridal has become known for its timeless elegance, couture-like construction and quietly confident approach to dressing modern brides. In this exclusive interview, Emilia reflects on her latest bridal collection, the evolution of the category, and the design principles that continue to inspire women around the world.
Your forthcoming bridal collection feels like a compelling evolution of the Emilia Wickstead bridal language. Where did the creative conversation begin?
The central inspiration behind this bridal collection comes from my love of cinema and architecture. Across all my collections, I draw inspiration from both these references. They provide a rich source of inspiration, whether through dramatic silhouettes, elegant proportions, or a strong sense of storytelling.
The creative process for this collection began with a desire to honour craftsmanship and celebrate the principles that define timeless design. I focused on classical proportions, precise construction, and meticulous attention to detail, ensuring that every gown felt considered and purposeful. Creating gowns with longevity in the designs that feel relevant and beautiful today, but will continue to resonate for years to come.
Each collection builds so thoughtfully upon the last. How would you describe the key stylistic evolution within this season’s offering, and what felt most important to refine or reimagine?
As our bridal offering continues to grow, it has become increasingly important to me to provide gowns that are not only visually striking but also exceptional in fit and construction. Every design was developed with the bride’s experience in mind, resulting in gowns that feel effortless to wear while reflecting the highest level of craftsmanship. Ultimately, the collection is about creating modern heirlooms: timeless gowns that combine romance, elegance, and technical excellence.
I’m very fortunate to have an exceptional atelier in place here in West London, with whom I work closely to create each garment from start to finish.
Fabrication has always been integral to the architectural precision of your work. Which textiles felt particularly significant to this collection, and how did they shape the overall mood and structure of the designs?
For this collection, we worked with a variety of fabrics, although I naturally gravitate towards Italian duchesse satin, silk Mikado and crepe, as both have a beautiful ability to mould to the body while maintaining structure and elegance. This season, we also introduced lace in a much more prominent way. While lace has featured in previous collections, here it plays a far more significant role, bringing an added sense of romance and delicacy to the designs.
Beyond the fabric itself, the internal construction of a gown is equally important. You can work with the most exquisite materials in the world, but if the pattern cutting and balance of the garment are not considered carefully, it will ultimately show in the final result. A great bridal gown should feel as beautiful on the inside as it looks on the outside.
That is why we place such emphasis on structure and fit. Many of our designs incorporate built-in half-corsets and internal support systems seamlessly integrated into the gown. These elements provide shape, confidence and security for the bride, while ensuring she remains comfortable and able to move freely throughout the day.
The modern wedding wardrobe continues to evolve beyond the traditional singular gown. What shifts have you observed in the way brides are approaching bridal dressing today, and how has this informed your design process?
We have noticed a shift towards brides wanting to wear a single look throughout the day. While shorter dresses continue to have a place in the market, we are increasingly introducing versatile elements such as detachable trains, jackets, overskirts and other interchangeable pieces that allow a bridal look to evolve seamlessly from ceremony to celebration.
Today’s bride wants her look to feel personal and reflective of her individual style, without necessarily requiring multiple outfit changes. By incorporating subtle, transformative details, a dress can take on a new character throughout the day, offering both practicality and impact while remaining effortlessly elegant.
Your bridal collections are known for balancing restraint with emotional impact. How do you approach designing pieces that feel both deeply personal to the bride and unmistakably reflective of the house’s signature codes?
The bridal collection is a reimagining of the architectural lines and old-world glamour that inspire each season, interpreted through a contemporary lens. It is a classicism that feels very much alive. Rooted in the house’s codes of proportion, precise construction and considered decoration, each gown is designed not only for a single occasion but as a piece to be treasured long afterwards.
Certain silhouettes appear throughout every collection because they feel intrinsic to the Emilia Wickstead bride. The dropped waist and voluminous skirt, seen in the Fano dress, reflect a sense of grandeur and timeless femininity. In contrast, styles such as the Fiona offer a more streamlined expression: a figure-skimming gown that falls softly to the floor, finished with a delicate train and a draped bodice of sculptural pleats that creates an elongated, elegant silhouette.
For me, the key is always balance. I am interested in the dialogue between romance and restraint, between softness and structure, and between dramatic volume and clean, linear lines. That tension is what gives the collection its character.
Is there a particular piece within the forthcoming collection that feels especially meaningful to you, either as a reflection of the season’s direction or as a design that captures the essence of Emilia Wickstead Bridal most powerfully?
The Kaida gown is a completely new bridal silhouette for us. We first introduced a similar style in our AW26 collection, which was very well received, and there was a real demand for this dress to be part of our bridal collection. We took this on board and, together with my design team and atelier, looked at ways to make this wedding-day appropriate, which resulted in a beautiful strapless, corseted gown in ivory jacquard with a pleated ball skirt and a waist that extends into a tie-back train.
For brides preparing to embark on a bespoke or custom bridal journey, what guidance would you offer to help them approach the process with clarity and confidence? And what do you believe is most important when creating a gown that feels truly personal?
When it comes to bespoke gowns, the process is always highly collaborative. I work closely with each bride to bring her vision to life while guiding her through the design journey. Often, as soon as a bride shares her ideas, I can immediately envision how they might translate into a gown, whether that results in something beautifully understated or more elaborate and dramatic.
From there, I work with my design team to develop initial sketches and refine the concept together with the bride. Once the design direction is established, I remain involved throughout the entire process, considering every element of the final look — from the shoes and jewellery to the hair and make-up — to ensure everything feels cohesive and considered.
Of course, every bride is unique, and the level of involvement varies depending on her preferences and needs. Ultimately, our role is to create a gown that feels deeply personal and reflects her individuality, while offering guidance and expertise that make the experience both seamless and enjoyable.
For more information, visit emiliawickstead.com and @emiliawicksteadbridal
